Bolt Kit

Get Fancy Looking for a nice the finishing touch to your custom build?  Can't get enough oil slick bling?  You're in the right place. Our custom four-piece brake lever hardware kits are precision machined from strong, corrosion-resistant 6/4 titanium and, well, look awesome.   Will they save weight?  Maybe!  But that's not really the point, is it? Compatibility: Brake lever (BL) part numbers are located under the brake lever body.  This kit has been tested and approved ONLY for the following Shimano lever models: XTR BL-M9100 / BL-M9120 XT BL-M8000 / BL-M8100 SLX BL-M7000 / BL-M7100 Deore MT500 / MT501 Deore BL-M6000 / BL-M6100 Non-Series BL-M4100 Clamp bolts are 3mm (1/8in) longer than stock (and typically OK) on the following models depending on lever thread depth: Saint BL-M820 XTR BL-M985 / BL-M987 / BL-M988 / BL-M9000 / BL-M9020 Important! The smaller bolts cover the very important hydraulic reservoir.  DO NOT INSTALL unless you have the skills and tools needed to bleed the brakes if fluid is lost.   "Oil slick" anodizing is an electrochemical process and no two parts will look the same.  Variety is the spice of life. Installation: Required tools & supplies: Bicycle workstand Mild cleaner Clean rag 4mm hex wrench 2.5mm hex wrench Torque wrench with 2.5mm hex bit 4mm hex bit Copper anti-seize Optional: Digital level or level app Repeat the following for each lever: With the bike on the ground, use a level (or smartphone level app) to note the angle of your brake levers relative to the grips. Mount your bike in the workstand. Clean your brake levers with a mild solvent and soft cloth, paying special attention to the area around the reservoir covers.  You don't want to introduce dirt, grime, or anything else into your brake system. Insert a 2-2.5mm hex key or small pick into the "Push to Open" hole and remove the lever from the bar. Using a 4mm hex key, remove the stock clamping bolt from your brakes If you haven't lost it already, a little O-ring will likely come off when the bolts are unthreaded.   Keep track of your O-rings!  Some brake models use different sizes and you don't want a dirty clamping bolt O-ring in your reservoir. Insert a 2-2.5mm hex key or small pick into the "Push to Open" hole and remove the lever from the bar. Insert one of the longer bolts in place of the stock clamping bolt. Roll the O-ring on to the threaded end of bolt to keep it in place. Apply a dab of copper anti-seize to the end of one of the bolt. Reinstall the brake lever on the bar You may need to use the 2.5mm hex in the "Push to Open" hole to open the clamp wide enough Take care to align the bolt with the lever threads.  The alignment can be a little fiddly so take your time. Rotate the lever so that it is roughly level to the ground and snug clamp bolt to  hold lever in place (<4Nm). Use a 2.5mm hex wrench to remove the stock bleed screw from the reservoir. Take care not to jostle the bike or squeeze the brake lever with the bleed screw removed. In freshly-bled brakes, brake fluid should be visible in the bleed port.  You want it to stay there.  If you don't see fluid, it could be time for a brake bleed. Carefully remove the O-ring from the bleed screw head.  Sometimes the O-ring will be left in the bleed port, if so, pluck it out. Carefully roll the O-ring on to the replacement bleed screw such that it sits around the smooth section immediately under the screw head. Insert the replacement bleed screw into the bleed port and tighten to 0.4 Nm. Once again taking care not to jostle the bike or squeeze the brake lever until bleed port is covered and sealed. Do not add grease or anti-seize to the bleed screw- we don't want any of either in your brake fluid. That's really not tight at all.  The hex is tiny and the reservoir is not a pressurized part of the braking system.  Go easy. Inspect your lever for spilled fluid around the bleed port. Because you were really careful and gentle there isn't any, right? If there is, please proceed to bleed your brakes or take them to a shop to have them bled. Loosen the clamp bolt and rotate the lever to the angle noted earlier.   Tighten the clamp bolt to 6Nm. You want the levers to stay put in normal use but rotate in the event of a crash. Repeat steps 1-18 for the other brake lever. Give your levers a few good firm squeezes- if they feel mushy or different from how they usually do, give 'em a bleed. Go for a ride.

Have you ever had too much bolt? It seems that some designers don't take hardware height into account when designing their water bottle cages.  Having bolt heads protrude into cage makes for more difficult bottle insertion and removal, mars bottles, and can remove the finish from the bolts themselves.  Which is why we designed and machined our own Ultra-Low Profile Bottle Cage Bolts from strong, corrosion-resistant Grade 5 titanium (Ti6Al4V).   But it turns out that they look pretty great filling unused bosses too!  With heads that sit only 1.75mm above the boss, our Ultra-Low Profile bolts look clean on unused bosses and minimize interference with bags or cables. Not only are they attractive and functional, our Ultra-Low Profile Bottle Cage Bolts weigh 1.2g each or 5g for a set of four.  That's pretty darn light. A note of caution: These bolts won't be for everyone.  In order to achieve such a low head while maintaining bolt strength, these bolts use a 2.5mm hex.  That means that care must be taken and the following are required for installation: High-quality 2.5mm hex bit in good condition Copper anti-seize compound or dielectric grease Torque wrench set no higher than 2-3Nm In addition, it is wise to remove and re-grease the bolts annually to prevent seizing.  Re-grease more often if you sweat heavily, have leaky bottles of electrolyte drink, or ride on salted roads (or near the sea).

Don't Stop (Looking Good) Looking for a nice the finishing touch to your custom build?  Just can't get enough oil slick?  You're in the right place. Our custom Matchmaker brake and shift lever hardware kits are precision machined from strong, corrosion-resistant 6/4 titanium and, well, look awesome.   And because some folks have strong feelings about Torx hardware, all four pieces use a 4mm hex instead. Will they save weight?  Maybe!  But that's not really the point, is it? Compatibility:   SRAM and Avid Matchmaker-compatible brake levers with shift levers mounted to the brake clamp. Matchmaker-compatible hydraulic disc brake levers SRAM  Important! These bolts hold your brake levers on.  At the same time, you want your shift and brake levers to  rotate instead of break in the event of a crash.  We recommend the following torques: Lever clamp: 4-5Nm Shifter to shifter mount: 5-6Nm Shifter mount to brake clamp: 4-5Nm Oil slick rainbow anodizing is an electrochemical process and no two parts will look the same. We attach the electrodes required for finishing in inconspicuous spots, which means that you could see some unusual patterns in parts of your bolts that shouldn't be visible after installation. Installation: Required tools & supplies: Bicycle workstand Mild cleaner Clean rag T25 Torx wrench 4mm hex wrench Torque wrench with 4mm hex bit Copper anti-seize Optional: Digital level or level app Repeat the following for each lever: With the bike on the ground, use a level (or smartphone level app) to note the angle of your brake levers relative to the grips. Mount your bike in the workstand. Remove the Torx bolt holding the shift lever to the right shifter mount Remove the flat head Torx bolt holding the right shifter mount to the brake clamp Note how aluminum t-nut with curved flange sits inside lever clamp Remove the Torx bolt holding the right and left lever clamps to each lever body Clean your brake levers and clamps with a mild solvent and soft cloth, paying special attention to the clamping surfaces.  You don't want dirt, grime, or anything else on your brakes' clamping surfaces. Add anti-seize compound to threads of all new bolts. Reinstall aluminum T-nut with curved flange in brake lever clamp and install fine titanium flat head bolt through shifter mount into T-nut barrel. T-nut threads are very fine and subject to cross-threading: if you feel resistance stop, realign parts, and try again. Use 4mm hex key tighten flat head screw to finger-tight but do not torque at this point. Make sure that T-nut flange sits in broad brake clamp channel.  If it's sitting proud of the bar clamp surface you could scratch or damage your handlebar. Reinstall shift lever on shift lever mount using short titanium screw and 4mm hex key.   Reinstall brake levers on bar using long titanium brake lever clamp bolts. Check your (bolt) head: if heads do not sit flat on the Matchmaker clamp remove the bolts and add the provided washer under the head before reinstalling. If you have an early kit that does not include washers and you need them, please contact us with your address and we'll get some out right away. Remove the bike from the stand and holt or lean upright. Loosen the clamp bolt and rotate the levers to the angle noted earlier.   Using torque wrench and 4mm hex bit torque brake lever clamp bolts to 4-5Nm Brake levers should not rotate in normal use. Loosen flat head screw holding shift lever mount to brake lever clamp rotate around the bar to a comfortable position. Using torque wrench and 4mm hex bit torque flat head titanium screw holding shift lever mount to brake clamp to 4-5Nm Using torque wrench and 4mm hex bit torque titanium bolt holding shift lever to shift lever mount to 5-6Nm Go for a ride. As always, Trademarks are property of their respective owners.  Compatibility statements from Terske are not endorsements by trademark holders.